ADVENTURES OF RUDRADHARI – UTTARAKHAND

The month was December and the year was 2017. It was not weirdly cold, but we felt the chills after we had set off to Kausani even in the dazzling morning hours. The journey was to take some 2 hours by the road from Almora. The cab ran on the road just like a knife runs on a butter due to which we did not feel any wariness during the journey to Kausani.

Since we had the option of check in at the Hotel at around 2pm, we had ample time to discover few amazing places around. We asked our Driver Bhaijee, if he would suggest some nice, quaint location nearby where we could visit before checking in. After giving some thought, he suggested us a place some 10 kilometers from Kausani , named Rudradhari Falls. But he cautioned us that we need to trek for 2 kms to reach the place. We promptly agreed to it without any second thought as we had adequate time to discover the place. On our way, we stopped at Chai Dukan near Maler village to have some quick snacks. The lady sitting at Chai shop enquired about where we were going, and after she heard about Rudradhari, she hurried us up, and cautioned us not to be late as it was a quiet jungle with less visitors in that season. 

Just after taking the cut towards Rudradhari on Kantali Village road, we could see vast yellow fields on one side with few huts around. It appeared as if the village was into some sort of cultivation that season. The shades of yellow and green intermingled and swore to amaze the eyes looking at them. On the other side, there was huge blocks of mountains with patches of greenery on the surface and pine trees on the top surface, which I thought was difficult to reach, only till I saw some goats grazing the surface. It might have been possible that there were some huts on the top as well.

It was only some 15 minutes before we were to reach the destination when our car was stopped by some villagers who sat on chairs near the road. There were 2-3 men eagerly looking to talk to us and few other boys who were mending the chain of the wheel in the broken cycle. One of them named Prem Ji, somewhere in his 30s came to us and asked if we need any guide for the trek. Bhaijee told us that these locals were well aware of the terrain and it would be safe to go along with them rather than venturing alone in the quaint jungle. We asked Prem Ji , if we could do the trek ourselves and he agreed happily, saying that we could do as per our wishes and they offered their services only for the safety and providing knowledge to the tourist.

I loved the fact, that the person could use the situation to all his advantage and could tell us some negative things about the route as well so that we had no other option than hiring him. But he did not do that, rather explained us the route from where to start and few caution to avoid deviating. 

The best thing about Local Pahadia people is that they are straight forward and at the same time very honest to the outsiders. Filling pocket is not their interest, rather they make sure that travellers like us get best of our experiences during the time. Besides, you get to know many cultural and village stories, which you always remember for life.

I don’t know why, but without discussing it further, I asked Prem Ji to accompany us and be our trek guide. He joyfully boarded the front seat of the cab and asked the driver to stop at the place from where we needed to tread the way on foot.  Prem Ji asked us to take at least a litre of water from the small and only shop at the place, as the next water source was quite a distance away.

Chanting the name of Mahadev, we started the trek.

Nature always surprises us in a way we can never think of. After a 15 minutes ascend in the path, we suddenly reached a lush green jungle nestled amidst huge mountains. There was small shrubs, grasses and huge trees as well. But the most eye catching experience was the view of Yellow and Orangish leaves on the tree which we generally see after the fall in autumn. Just below it was the small stream of river and we could easily hear the sound of burbles it made while flowing. As the place was deadening silent, we could hear even the slightest sound of dry leaves the we crushed as we advanced along the way. I was so happy seeing that crystal clear water that I could not stop myself from taking few moments to wash my face and have few sips of this “blessed” water. That feeling of relaxation and refreshment as I splashed my face with the river water, is something unforgettable.

The “blessed” water of Kosi inside the jungle

As we kept walking, the huge communities of Chir, Pine, Oaks, Sals, and Vijaysar kept welcoming us with flowers and leaves of varied colours and sizes.

I was amused to see some lone standing vertical rocks of immense size by the side of river. It was only when we  started clicking pictures that Prem Ji told us that for villagers like them, it was a play to just walk and run on those standing rocks. We thought he was joking and disbelieved him as we laughed and started adjusting the lenses. 

It is phenomena that you might not believe as you read this, but having experienced it in front of my eyes, I was startled. I suddenly heard that thumping sound of a run. In no time, Prem Ji, had ran on the walls of that huge rock and before we could close our lids, he was back on the other side of the ground. Without a bit of struggle, he did what he was saying in no time.                                             

Even before we could grasp it, he did it again for the second time, with the same ease , and we stayed startled. It was just in a fraction of minutes, and we were so surprised that we did not even get the time to record it. This was something my natural lenses would remember forever. I told him that his skills were unimaginable and he was nothing less than “Shivaay”. (Since I had watched the Ajay Devgan movie few days back and could not stop myself from giving him the title) 

We then kept walking quietly, without any questions on his skill where he kept explaining us , how he fought a wild pig in his village and saved a kid’s life. Everything seemed plausible after that stunt we had seen few moments back. Among such talks and his explanation to us about the place, we reached the Rudradhari Fall.

After an hour climb, we were there! We also met a family of three accompanied by security guard leaving the temple premises. 

Nestled among the mountains of Someshwar Range in Uttarakhand, the fall had a small temple dedicated to Rudra(Shiv) and Hari(Vishnu) with a small pond near to it having a decent volume of water. Prem Ji, explained to us, during the monsoons, the area gets flooded with river water and sometimes washes away vegetation along the way due to the current. We took off our shoes and entered the temple made in a natural cave. We could see a small Shivaling with small metal made serpent around. The Pandit Ji there believed it was the place where Shiv and Vishnu prayed together, hence was named Rudradhari. Besides, a famous sage named Swami Sadanand Ji Maharaj is said to have practiced meditation in the cave for many years. He also informed us that there were many snakes in that pond as well where the water falls, some tiny and some large ones and the place was frequented by tigers and fox at odd hours of night. We spent quite a time in the silence of the place and felt rejuvenated within. The sun was about to set in an hour or two and we had to leave. This is the most difficult part for me specifically for a place where the silence doesn’t haunts me and I can feel myself. But we had to, to avoid wee hours of the night travelling back to Kausani. 

We started our journey back to the shop from where had started. The return journey was comparatively easy as we knew the paths and terrain. But before we could even reach the mid-section of the trail, we saw a stone fall in front of us. We immediately stopped there and then Prem Ji was quick enough to assess the situation. He took us behind the boulder on our way back and asked us to stay calm and uptight, without any movement. We followed his every single word and then after few minutes, he showed us a black bear that was climbing back on the mountains. We were hell frightened to see the Bear for first time in our lives. I mean, yeah I saw them last, in a caged zoo, not this daring, but eating a banana and looking towards the people who flashed their camera at them. 

But isn’t it wrong to get frightened at such places? Afterall it’s their home! We are some unusual guest who enter their premises and feel them to be someone we can fear! Don’t you think if someone tries to enter your house without being called for, you might react repulsively? Prem Ji told us, that they generally exist with movement of human being, until and unless they feel threatened by an enemy. He speculated that the family with security guard, who had left just as we reached the temple(a difference of some 1 hour with current time), might have strayed in the forest knowingly or unknowingly (as we spotted them there few moment back on our return journey as well). As the security guard was carrying a rifle , it might have been possible that bear would have spotted him with it and considering them as a threat, he looked for a chance to frighten us, so he pushed a big stone amidst our way. When we saw the bear climbing back, we resumed our journey back with a faster pace, fearing that it could return. It took 40 more minutes to reach that shop, where we sat down, and gasped for breath. The shopkeeper, his wife, our guide and driver discussed amongst themselves the incident. The wife came and serves us a cup of coffee and said, “ Madam Ji, ye janwaro ka ghar hai, wo to apne bachon ki suraksha karenge hi. Logo ko rules follow karni chahye”. (Madam, it is a home to animals too. They also want to protect their kids. People should follow the rules)

I felt saddened by the feel that how these local communities, even if not well versed with rules and regulations, knew to protect the wild life and co-exist with them peacefully. But the so called literate people, couldn’t! Tourism doesn’t simply means that you are going to a place that you paid for, and doing as per your wishes. Remember, you need to follow the local tips, the government regulations for conserving flora and fauna, and most importantly, respect every being around you, be it people, animals, plants. You are there as a tourist, but it is a home to them, their life, their everything.

With many happy and cherishing memories, with lot of practical learnings, and thanking our “Shivaay” a.k.a Prem Ji our protector in truest sense, we boarded the cab. We left the place and moved towards those neatly curved roads, and saw the sun gradually move towards the horizon over the vast cultivated fields dashing with greens and yellows. 

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