ADVENTURES OF RUDRADHARI – UTTARAKHAND

The month was December and the year was 2017. It was not weirdly cold, but we felt the chills after we had set off to Kausani even in the dazzling morning hours. The journey was to take some 2 hours by the road from Almora. The cab ran on the road just like a knife runs on a butter due to which we did not feel any wariness during the journey to Kausani.

Since we had the option of check in at the Hotel at around 2pm, we had ample time to discover few amazing places around. We asked our Driver Bhaijee, if he would suggest some nice, quaint location nearby where we could visit before checking in. After giving some thought, he suggested us a place some 10 kilometers from Kausani , named Rudradhari Falls. But he cautioned us that we need to trek for 2 kms to reach the place. We promptly agreed to it without any second thought as we had adequate time to discover the place. On our way, we stopped at Chai Dukan near Maler village to have some quick snacks. The lady sitting at Chai shop enquired about where we were going, and after she heard about Rudradhari, she hurried us up, and cautioned us not to be late as it was a quiet jungle with less visitors in that season. 

Just after taking the cut towards Rudradhari on Kantali Village road, we could see vast yellow fields on one side with few huts around. It appeared as if the village was into some sort of cultivation that season. The shades of yellow and green intermingled and swore to amaze the eyes looking at them. On the other side, there was huge blocks of mountains with patches of greenery on the surface and pine trees on the top surface, which I thought was difficult to reach, only till I saw some goats grazing the surface. It might have been possible that there were some huts on the top as well.

It was only some 15 minutes before we were to reach the destination when our car was stopped by some villagers who sat on chairs near the road. There were 2-3 men eagerly looking to talk to us and few other boys who were mending the chain of the wheel in the broken cycle. One of them named Prem Ji, somewhere in his 30s came to us and asked if we need any guide for the trek. Bhaijee told us that these locals were well aware of the terrain and it would be safe to go along with them rather than venturing alone in the quaint jungle. We asked Prem Ji , if we could do the trek ourselves and he agreed happily, saying that we could do as per our wishes and they offered their services only for the safety and providing knowledge to the tourist.

I loved the fact, that the person could use the situation to all his advantage and could tell us some negative things about the route as well so that we had no other option than hiring him. But he did not do that, rather explained us the route from where to start and few caution to avoid deviating. 

The best thing about Local Pahadia people is that they are straight forward and at the same time very honest to the outsiders. Filling pocket is not their interest, rather they make sure that travellers like us get best of our experiences during the time. Besides, you get to know many cultural and village stories, which you always remember for life.

I don’t know why, but without discussing it further, I asked Prem Ji to accompany us and be our trek guide. He joyfully boarded the front seat of the cab and asked the driver to stop at the place from where we needed to tread the way on foot.  Prem Ji asked us to take at least a litre of water from the small and only shop at the place, as the next water source was quite a distance away.

Chanting the name of Mahadev, we started the trek.

Nature always surprises us in a way we can never think of. After a 15 minutes ascend in the path, we suddenly reached a lush green jungle nestled amidst huge mountains. There was small shrubs, grasses and huge trees as well. But the most eye catching experience was the view of Yellow and Orangish leaves on the tree which we generally see after the fall in autumn. Just below it was the small stream of river and we could easily hear the sound of burbles it made while flowing. As the place was deadening silent, we could hear even the slightest sound of dry leaves the we crushed as we advanced along the way. I was so happy seeing that crystal clear water that I could not stop myself from taking few moments to wash my face and have few sips of this “blessed” water. That feeling of relaxation and refreshment as I splashed my face with the river water, is something unforgettable.

The “blessed” water of Kosi inside the jungle

As we kept walking, the huge communities of Chir, Pine, Oaks, Sals, and Vijaysar kept welcoming us with flowers and leaves of varied colours and sizes.

I was amused to see some lone standing vertical rocks of immense size by the side of river. It was only when we  started clicking pictures that Prem Ji told us that for villagers like them, it was a play to just walk and run on those standing rocks. We thought he was joking and disbelieved him as we laughed and started adjusting the lenses. 

It is phenomena that you might not believe as you read this, but having experienced it in front of my eyes, I was startled. I suddenly heard that thumping sound of a run. In no time, Prem Ji, had ran on the walls of that huge rock and before we could close our lids, he was back on the other side of the ground. Without a bit of struggle, he did what he was saying in no time.                                             

Even before we could grasp it, he did it again for the second time, with the same ease , and we stayed startled. It was just in a fraction of minutes, and we were so surprised that we did not even get the time to record it. This was something my natural lenses would remember forever. I told him that his skills were unimaginable and he was nothing less than “Shivaay”. (Since I had watched the Ajay Devgan movie few days back and could not stop myself from giving him the title) 

We then kept walking quietly, without any questions on his skill where he kept explaining us , how he fought a wild pig in his village and saved a kid’s life. Everything seemed plausible after that stunt we had seen few moments back. Among such talks and his explanation to us about the place, we reached the Rudradhari Fall.

After an hour climb, we were there! We also met a family of three accompanied by security guard leaving the temple premises. 

Nestled among the mountains of Someshwar Range in Uttarakhand, the fall had a small temple dedicated to Rudra(Shiv) and Hari(Vishnu) with a small pond near to it having a decent volume of water. Prem Ji, explained to us, during the monsoons, the area gets flooded with river water and sometimes washes away vegetation along the way due to the current. We took off our shoes and entered the temple made in a natural cave. We could see a small Shivaling with small metal made serpent around. The Pandit Ji there believed it was the place where Shiv and Vishnu prayed together, hence was named Rudradhari. Besides, a famous sage named Swami Sadanand Ji Maharaj is said to have practiced meditation in the cave for many years. He also informed us that there were many snakes in that pond as well where the water falls, some tiny and some large ones and the place was frequented by tigers and fox at odd hours of night. We spent quite a time in the silence of the place and felt rejuvenated within. The sun was about to set in an hour or two and we had to leave. This is the most difficult part for me specifically for a place where the silence doesn’t haunts me and I can feel myself. But we had to, to avoid wee hours of the night travelling back to Kausani. 

We started our journey back to the shop from where had started. The return journey was comparatively easy as we knew the paths and terrain. But before we could even reach the mid-section of the trail, we saw a stone fall in front of us. We immediately stopped there and then Prem Ji was quick enough to assess the situation. He took us behind the boulder on our way back and asked us to stay calm and uptight, without any movement. We followed his every single word and then after few minutes, he showed us a black bear that was climbing back on the mountains. We were hell frightened to see the Bear for first time in our lives. I mean, yeah I saw them last, in a caged zoo, not this daring, but eating a banana and looking towards the people who flashed their camera at them. 

But isn’t it wrong to get frightened at such places? Afterall it’s their home! We are some unusual guest who enter their premises and feel them to be someone we can fear! Don’t you think if someone tries to enter your house without being called for, you might react repulsively? Prem Ji told us, that they generally exist with movement of human being, until and unless they feel threatened by an enemy. He speculated that the family with security guard, who had left just as we reached the temple(a difference of some 1 hour with current time), might have strayed in the forest knowingly or unknowingly (as we spotted them there few moment back on our return journey as well). As the security guard was carrying a rifle , it might have been possible that bear would have spotted him with it and considering them as a threat, he looked for a chance to frighten us, so he pushed a big stone amidst our way. When we saw the bear climbing back, we resumed our journey back with a faster pace, fearing that it could return. It took 40 more minutes to reach that shop, where we sat down, and gasped for breath. The shopkeeper, his wife, our guide and driver discussed amongst themselves the incident. The wife came and serves us a cup of coffee and said, “ Madam Ji, ye janwaro ka ghar hai, wo to apne bachon ki suraksha karenge hi. Logo ko rules follow karni chahye”. (Madam, it is a home to animals too. They also want to protect their kids. People should follow the rules)

I felt saddened by the feel that how these local communities, even if not well versed with rules and regulations, knew to protect the wild life and co-exist with them peacefully. But the so called literate people, couldn’t! Tourism doesn’t simply means that you are going to a place that you paid for, and doing as per your wishes. Remember, you need to follow the local tips, the government regulations for conserving flora and fauna, and most importantly, respect every being around you, be it people, animals, plants. You are there as a tourist, but it is a home to them, their life, their everything.

With many happy and cherishing memories, with lot of practical learnings, and thanking our “Shivaay” a.k.a Prem Ji our protector in truest sense, we boarded the cab. We left the place and moved towards those neatly curved roads, and saw the sun gradually move towards the horizon over the vast cultivated fields dashing with greens and yellows. 

THE THREE PEARLS OF SPITI VALLEY – PIN, KUNGRI AND MUDH

It was our Day 1 at Kaza. After ten hours of journey the previous day, we were tired to another extreme. Body parts felt disoriented after the journey we took from Manali to Kaza. Special Thanks to be given to the total unkempt road from Manali-Batal-Losar, where it appeared that there was no road and our Traveller was ferrying on rocks and stones only. The journey was scenic but quite adventurous.

Sea buckthorn Chai is life saver at high alt ❤️

We had not been totally acclimatized to the new place perched at 12500 feet(which is totally not recommended- Please ensure you have at least a day of proper rest until you feel comfortable at the new altitude and your breathing appears to be normal). Even after 7-8 hours of proper sleep, the breathing pattern was faster and there was a moderate headache among all of us who were to take the journey that day( My SPO2 level was at 72) .At the Himalayan Café, I chose to have a bread, omelette and poha. I was extremely hungry and waited for the food to arrive soon. Vishakha, our host there, suggested us to have Sea Buckthorn Chai instead of Coffee, which would help us keep the body warm. After having a cup of it, we felt much better. Having thanked her for such an amazing suggestion, we boarded our Traveller and left for the first destination of the day- Pin Valley National Park.

I felt as if the headache kept increasing with the height we were attaining during the journey. I could not hold myself with that intensity of pain in head, and asked Jagjeet Ji (our driver) to stop at a corner of the road. So he stopped at a safe location on that road and I threw up as soon as I got out of the vehicle. I felt a sense of relief and vibe as if I could enjoy now on. My head did not feel banging, and we crossed the bridge that let us to Pin Valley National Park.

The rugged uneven terrain of mountains as we enter Pin Valley
As you keep venturing inside the Pin Valley, the view gets smoother with more of green patches for cultivation in the sight

With the eroded standing rocks and mountainous crevice that are a characteristic feature of Spiti Valley on one side, we saw greenish blue colored Pin river on the other side, flowing in its full glory. I had made an assumption that National Park would be a forested area just like the other ones like Jim Corbett and all, but it was same as the road that we undertook while crossing that bridge before entering the Park. Only difference was that any developmental work like setting up of commercial stays, restaurants, or hunting activities and even grazing was not allowed there( these are true of other National Parks you hear). In the hapless expectation of spotting a snow leopard there, my eyes were tired after looking even at the farthest rocks on the mountain. Since the leopards camouflage entirely with the tone of rocks, spotting one is difficult in summers. Snow provides an excellent condition of catching their sight. I could not see any of the fauna as mentioned on the board describing flora and fauna of PVNP.  Since there was a significant green patch on the borders of the road, and the valley surrounding the river, I assumed they consisted of many medicinal plant and herbs, flowers, and spices, that were mentioned at the entrance. (A good sight for people from Botany background, who could spot even the rarest plants!)

After a while, just before we were about to reach the periphery of the park(as we started to see few human settlements at a distance), we saw huge snow clad  mountains at a distance which houses the glacier from where the Pin River originates. Surrounding it were barren rock mountains extending to great heights with few stretches of wilderness in green. It was surreal- there was a sight everyone dreams of- the snow mountains with river flowing beneath, and few houses on the far edge. It appeared as if the drawings that we used to make in childhood, of home, river and inverted V mountains were coming true.

We started to spot the tree of Peas(matar), Buckwheat, and crops of Barley(jow) in the fields, that grew in frequency just as we were about to enter the village. The rivers also started to appear at quite a distance from here on. After few more minutes of travelling, we entered the main gates of second oldest monastery of Lahaul Spiti region- The Kungri Monastery.

Our travel expert- Tenzin, who sat just behind me, updated that it was the only monastery that entire region that followed Nyingmapa  Buddhism . Later on , I came to know that this sect was the oldest form of Tibetan Buddhism – the one dedicated to Tantrayana or Vajrayana. In the wake of COVID situation, there were not much of tourists there. Apart from us- the three girls visiting the monastery, there were just two other bikers.

We entered through main gate and saw a building with rooms for monks on the three side with their dark red clothes drying in the verandas and a Prayer Hall in the center. As the main entrance to door of the Prayer Hall was shut, I decided to look at the colorful frescos and paintings on the wall outside the hall- some had faded and some appeared to have been colored recently.

Murals and frescos on the walls at the entrance

The entire area was dedicated to different forms of Guru Rinpoche or popularly known as Guru Padmasambhava in India. He is believed to have taught at the famous Nalanda University during 8th century and is considered the founder of Tantric School of Buddhism in Tibet. Extending from one corner of the wall to other, were the eight manifestations that Guru Rinpoche is believed to have lived during his life time. All his exemplification are believed to have shown the eight quantum energy fields in Physics. Painting of Dorje Drolo with wild wrathful Vajra in one hand,  Sangye Dradok with lion roar, and other such forms prevalent in Tantrayana filled the walls with multitude of colors. It felt as if the Buddhist culture was given a life through these paintings, so that people could live in the zone.

After few moments, a resident monk of some 14-15 years of age came and opened the doors of Prayer Hall. We took off our shoes outside the sanctum, and entered the area which was total awe for a first time visitor like me. On the two sides of the hall, was a huge shelf that contained several small statues of Buddha and openings for the windows to let the air in. In the centre was huge golden plated statue of Gautam Buddha with a calm face, with Guru Rinpoche on his right having an aggressive facial tone and a female deity on the right. (Considering the fact that it was a Tantric Monastery, the female deity could be Tara-the female counterpart of Bodhisattva, as she held a lotus twig in her left hand signifying her spiritual purity). The entire chamber was filled with red coloured pillars with decorated golden motifs on the edges and ceiling of similar colour magnitude. After clicking pictures of the wonderful place and absorbing the various hues of Buddhist culture, we headed off to the last destination of the day- Mudh Village.

Cherishing the vast snow caps from Tara’s Homestay
Alluring view from the road leading to Mudh Village

Mudh Village, is a quaint serene village housing a small population of around 250 people. Surrounded by yellow flowered fields among the greens, with children playing on the streets, it was a visual treat! We stopped to have our lunch at one of the famous homestays there- Tara Homestay. We were greeted by a very humble lady who owned the homestay, and offered us to choose from the option she had for lunch. Heenika and I ordered for a Maggie, and others chose the very specialty of hills- Rajma Chawal and Pullow. After having quite a day, we all waited with our empty stomach for the lunch to arrive. It took to our surprise that food was literally the tastiest one, freshly prepared and hot even in such a cold temperature. Meanwhile all of us had quick chat and bonded over this feast from topics relating to the local culture, cuisine and geography of the place. Our mouth were filled with appreciation for the young lady who prepared the food in such a short time as per our taste preferences, with utmost cleanliness and hygiene in the kitchen.

We strayed out of the homestay towards the terrace(which I would have regretted not visiting). From the terrace lined with the colorful prayer flag, what I  saw was -the view of snowy mountain right in front of me. It appeared like a scene straight out of the movies. Both, Heenika and I, shot a small clip for our Instagram Reels and I danced my heart out like a child just to feel the beauty of moment I was in. Playing that folky tune and track from Krishh- Chori Chori Chupke Chupke, that Bollywood thing, of strong gushing winds, colorful surrounding, huge mountains, and river was getting hell real! That was the moment which I always dreamt of living in- My idea of Romanticism- Me and those Snow covered Pinnacles. Remembering those moments, I feel that we should sometimes let ourselves free, untangle ourselves of the thought of what others may think of us- it should be our happy zone, our zone of contentment- the one that we cannot show to everyone but whenever we think about it- we should have a sense of relief within.

But, you cannot sustain that chillness of the wind without sweater even in the afternoons of Mudh.    😛

All those happy heroic moments, were soon getting covered up in light headache that I had started to feel again.

Who cares!!

At the end what matters is- I had my little moment of happiness!

Afterall, two glasses of the Single Malt – the local drink made out of barley- cured me of the headache at last.

We returned back to Kaza and cherished the three pearls of Spiti we visited that day. The headache that prevailed since last night had precipitated after this magic potion. I could sleep peacefully that night 😊

AN UNEXPECTED ARRIVAL

The clouds grew darker in the sky while we were on our way from Komik to Langza. It appeared as it was soon going to rain very heavily, and the temperature was dipping fast. By no way, I could open the window near my seat and enjoy the Lo-Fi Classics trending these days on every Instagram Page, if I wanted to return in a good health.

The “kutcha” road added to the fun of travelling in such a weather with mountains running right next to us on one side, and brownish vegetation spread on the plain surface to the another side.

Let’s talk about Langza first, the thought that I incurred before we reached the place.

Not many people know the place by its name, but whenever we search “Spiti Valley” on Google and various tours and travel companies promote their trips to Spiti, what remains the most prevalent in those promotional picture is a giant statue of seated Buddha. So, I was very excited to see the place, and click some great pictures there for my Instagram and Facebook page. I even thought of the angles, that I would prefer to capture the statue and the mountains surrounding the place. The statues of Buddha remains an attractive feature for tourists visiting Spiti, Leh-Ladakh, Sikkim, Bodh Gaya for their majestic sizes and color vibrancy. Considering it my very initial visit to place of Buddhist heritage, I was overjoyed in my expectations.

We approached the curvy bends on the road, that would lead us to our destination. What we could see was a pale yellow coloured view of Buddha from a distance. As the distance decreased, the view got larger and clearer.

 But…

Something did not feel good, there was something going on in my mind and heart that I did not take cognizance of. After the final downhill turn, the traveler stopped but my heart kept beating louder.  I got out of the Traveler as soon as the gates opened. Unconscious of the fact that I left my shawl, diaries, waistpouch and mobile phone in the Traveler, I just marched out slowly towards the place.

The statue of Buddha that you see from backside as you enter Langza. Picture Courtesy: Manali Dutta

What I could see was backside of Buddha’s statue, all painted in zillions of color that humanity could paint him in. As I kept approaching him, and the size enlarged. I do not recall what my mind was feeling when I saw him from the side I entered. The Back, the neck, the legs, and then the face…….I don’t remember the order, but I saw him.

My heart pounded heavily, tears flashed in my eyes and I did not have anything to see except Gautam- The Buddha.

I could not feel the statue. I was rather seeing the real saint I heard about, sitting in front of me. The man I was seeing was not a statue, but the man we heard about, who existed centuries back and lived life like no one before- a life of austerity and meaningfulness. The 35 feet tall height that I saw in him was the one that consisted of his immense knowledge about life, his devotion to the humanity and a feeling that he will put everything in the world at peace. The prince who turned his life of luxury into religious homelessness all by his own choice was sitting there- all calm, serene, amongst the dark clouds , kindly gazing at the miniature human beings and the “Panchtatva” /five elements surrounding him.

When we go to places of religious significance, we bow down and ask for happiness, good health and other desires to be fulfilled by the almighty. But, there I was, sitting on the ground with my hands folded, head towards him, eyes sometimes closely pressed and sometimes seeing him in astonishment. I was crying without voice, but heavily in my heart. Tears poured down without any reason or emotion. There was a feeling of emptiness within.

I was indulged looking at the magnanimous Guru and had no idea what in the world around me was happening. There was a complete void in my thoughts , in my feeling.                                           

Letting go of yourself was a phenomena I had read but never experienced before that moment. I could not think of asking him anything in this world. I felt a burn in my heart that was ripping me apart, my hand and feet shivered even though there was no loud cry to echo my body.

After moments of continuous gazing, I felt a sudden long breeze of wind that crossed my face, with that last drop of tear falling on the ground.

There was feeling as if somebody has just touched my head and assured me that “You will be fine”. With a sense of satisfaction and smile on the face, I lifted myself up, saw Gautam for the one last time before I left the place. 

The “Madhyam Marg” or “ Path of Moderation” that Gautam Buddha propagated could not help me control the huge reservoir of feelings within. I let it out with the flow of nature. We can plan things, but they are destined for us by the nature.

I felt as if that cry was pending since a long time, in front of a person I trusted! We humans try to paint the gods, goddesses in every color we want to see them in, but the force of nature remains immensely huge to let those colors settle in our minds. What ultimately remains with us, is different shades of emotion and gratitude we witness, not the temporary ones that will fade in no time.

Never thought that a picturesque location that I kept seeing on my mobile screen, would give me a moment of lifetime.

If this is not magical , then what is?

With the hope of returning back again, I left this magical place called Langza.

Clouds hovering above! Captured by Me

© Purvi