Moonlight, Mountains, and Nothingness

Rare are the moments of peace in chaotic city life; rarer still are the moments when we truly pause to appreciate them.

I had the pleasure of spending quite a few days in the last month in the vastness of Ladakh. Even when I have returned to the usual city life, things don’t feel usual – simply because I have been addicted to those peaceful nights. Yes, peaceful because it was flawless as the mind could gather itself without any worries of waking tomorrow to a call bell or an alarm tone.

If you have a high expectation of knowing what my itinerary was or where I stayed, this blog might disappoint you. I am here to just talk about the conversation with myself during the days I did nothing. Frankly speaking, I have not been able to get over the last few days spent in a quaint village by the Siachen river near Nubra valley, called Kyagar. Life returned to the slow pace it was always meant to be lived at, unlike the rushed rhythm of city life that makes you uneasy if you stay still for too long.

Having spent approximately three nights here, I observed that I was not my usual self. Things unfolded naturally, and in their own quiet way, they gave me a lot to reflect upon. As I have been living in metropolitan cities for quite some time now, electricity is a non-compromised necessity that thrives in households in cities. Thanks to multiple government schemes, the remote villages seem to enjoy this luxury too. But in Kyagar, a village untouched by fame, who would expect the electricity to disappear sharply at 11 every night?

Automatically, you have to be prepared with a mandatory night kit – torches, a water bottle, lip balm [thanks to dry weather and chapped lips], and a warm pair of socks by 10ish. That automatically meant early dinner- a phenomenon that is unknown to me since aeons. One fine night, just after dinner, I thought of taking a small stroll near the property by the sand banks of the river Siachen, which was glistening like silver because of the full moon. (The safety of the region is something I can vouch for, even while I travelled solo!) The feet felt cold but relaxing. I did want to dip my legs in the knee-length water level, but the fear of crocodiles never leaves my side (I know there cannot be crocs at high altitude freezing glacial waters- but mind game !!!) I walked from one point to another with the thoughts of how beautiful a full moon night can be.

The snow-capped Himalayan peaks glowed under the moonlight, while the crowded galaxies appeared clearer than I had ever seen them beneath the open skies.- a rare sight in any city these days. I could spot Ursa Major, the Dhruv star, Scorpion, and Taurus in the night sky based on my past geographical knowledge of sighting them in the sky. That moment felt priceless, and my mind wandered as I tried to understand the vast beauty of nature that lay right in front of my eyes to explore.

While it might not be so appeasing to someone for whom this feeling might seem over exaggerated, looking the same from the eyes of a weary woman who went there without any thought or planning, it seems like a nature’s gift to calm her soul. I returned to the room before the main power went off and opened the curtains right in front of my bed to view the Karakoram peaks that seemed as if someone had placed pieces of silver on barren rocks that night. I tucked myself into the cosy, feather-like comforter and a relaxing cot and opened the retractable glass skylight on the terrace ( a highlight of the property to let visitors stargaze on the clear sky nights).

Retractable skylight on terrace

Even before I could think, the moonlight peeping inside the room, the silent lullaby of stars and mountains led me to a peaceful sleep. What I could remember next was waking up to a sunlight-filled room early in the morning with a clear view of peaks in front of me, and my eyes trying to adjust to so much light in the room.

Somewhere between that moonlit silence and the next morning sunlight, I realised- As a kid, what seemed normal, now felt like a lost wealth- sleeping without trying. That night, I do not remember falling asleep because of exhaustion or the hour, but it was a pure joy of Mother Nature putting her baby to a peaceful sleep in her lap. Can we return to days when our hearts felt as calm as glacial lakes- where we lived without hesitation, enjoyed without complaining, relished nature without trying to capture it, and appreciated everything without expecting anything in return?

Seems like a dream, far-fetched, right? Maybe someday, when you are weary, try to silence the noise bear you and return to your land of dreams, and be lost in nothingness. Maybe then you might feel that life is not just about the race we all have participated in, but a halt that we much need for our souls.

AN UNEXPECTED ARRIVAL

The clouds grew darker in the sky while we were on our way from Komik to Langza. It appeared as it was soon going to rain very heavily, and the temperature was dipping fast. By no way, I could open the window near my seat and enjoy the Lo-Fi Classics trending these days on every Instagram Page, if I wanted to return in a good health.

The “kutcha” road added to the fun of travelling in such a weather with mountains running right next to us on one side, and brownish vegetation spread on the plain surface to the another side.

Let’s talk about Langza first, the thought that I incurred before we reached the place.

Not many people know the place by its name, but whenever we search “Spiti Valley” on Google and various tours and travel companies promote their trips to Spiti, what remains the most prevalent in those promotional picture is a giant statue of seated Buddha. So, I was very excited to see the place, and click some great pictures there for my Instagram and Facebook page. I even thought of the angles, that I would prefer to capture the statue and the mountains surrounding the place. The statues of Buddha remains an attractive feature for tourists visiting Spiti, Leh-Ladakh, Sikkim, Bodh Gaya for their majestic sizes and color vibrancy. Considering it my very initial visit to place of Buddhist heritage, I was overjoyed in my expectations.

We approached the curvy bends on the road, that would lead us to our destination. What we could see was a pale yellow coloured view of Buddha from a distance. As the distance decreased, the view got larger and clearer.

 But…

Something did not feel good, there was something going on in my mind and heart that I did not take cognizance of. After the final downhill turn, the traveler stopped but my heart kept beating louder.  I got out of the Traveler as soon as the gates opened. Unconscious of the fact that I left my shawl, diaries, waistpouch and mobile phone in the Traveler, I just marched out slowly towards the place.

The statue of Buddha that you see from backside as you enter Langza. Picture Courtesy: Manali Dutta

What I could see was backside of Buddha’s statue, all painted in zillions of color that humanity could paint him in. As I kept approaching him, and the size enlarged. I do not recall what my mind was feeling when I saw him from the side I entered. The Back, the neck, the legs, and then the face…….I don’t remember the order, but I saw him.

My heart pounded heavily, tears flashed in my eyes and I did not have anything to see except Gautam- The Buddha.

I could not feel the statue. I was rather seeing the real saint I heard about, sitting in front of me. The man I was seeing was not a statue, but the man we heard about, who existed centuries back and lived life like no one before- a life of austerity and meaningfulness. The 35 feet tall height that I saw in him was the one that consisted of his immense knowledge about life, his devotion to the humanity and a feeling that he will put everything in the world at peace. The prince who turned his life of luxury into religious homelessness all by his own choice was sitting there- all calm, serene, amongst the dark clouds , kindly gazing at the miniature human beings and the “Panchtatva” /five elements surrounding him.

When we go to places of religious significance, we bow down and ask for happiness, good health and other desires to be fulfilled by the almighty. But, there I was, sitting on the ground with my hands folded, head towards him, eyes sometimes closely pressed and sometimes seeing him in astonishment. I was crying without voice, but heavily in my heart. Tears poured down without any reason or emotion. There was a feeling of emptiness within.

I was indulged looking at the magnanimous Guru and had no idea what in the world around me was happening. There was a complete void in my thoughts , in my feeling.                                           

Letting go of yourself was a phenomena I had read but never experienced before that moment. I could not think of asking him anything in this world. I felt a burn in my heart that was ripping me apart, my hand and feet shivered even though there was no loud cry to echo my body.

After moments of continuous gazing, I felt a sudden long breeze of wind that crossed my face, with that last drop of tear falling on the ground.

There was feeling as if somebody has just touched my head and assured me that “You will be fine”. With a sense of satisfaction and smile on the face, I lifted myself up, saw Gautam for the one last time before I left the place. 

The “Madhyam Marg” or “ Path of Moderation” that Gautam Buddha propagated could not help me control the huge reservoir of feelings within. I let it out with the flow of nature. We can plan things, but they are destined for us by the nature.

I felt as if that cry was pending since a long time, in front of a person I trusted! We humans try to paint the gods, goddesses in every color we want to see them in, but the force of nature remains immensely huge to let those colors settle in our minds. What ultimately remains with us, is different shades of emotion and gratitude we witness, not the temporary ones that will fade in no time.

Never thought that a picturesque location that I kept seeing on my mobile screen, would give me a moment of lifetime.

If this is not magical , then what is?

With the hope of returning back again, I left this magical place called Langza.

Clouds hovering above! Captured by Me

© Purvi